Trekking from Namche to Dole in Nepal

This is day 11 of my 24 day trek through the Khumbu region of Nepal -> View all posts for this trek

From Namche Bazaar, the way to Everest takes you back across the Dudh Kosi to the village of Tengboche, before heading up the valley of the Imja Khola and Khumbu Khola. Instead of taking this traditional route, I decided to continue following the Dudh Kosi up to its source at the Ngozumpa Glacier at Gokyo, and then tackle the Cho La Pass to rejoin onto that main Everest trail. Since I have done the classic Everest Base Camp trek before, this would be some new scenery for me and it would also take me away from the crowds (not that there were any at this particular time).

My trek from Namche began as most do, by climbing up above the village and then following the nice flat trail high up above the Dudh Kosi. The weather was beautiful once again with clear blue skies providing incredible views of the mountains all around. Kantega (6685m) was ever present on my right, while ahead the spectacular peak of Ama Dablam came into view, and then, like the day before, Nupste and Everest. I stopped for a cup of tea at the tiny village of Kyangjuma (3550m), sitting out in the warm sun with beautiful views up the valley to ice capped peaks.

Taboche, Everest and Nupste – the trek from Namche

Trekking towards Taboche

Just down the path at Sanasa, I left the main trail to Tengboche and branched off up the hill, following the sign post to Gokyo. The initial climb was steep and the nice flat trail meandering below looked inviting, but I continued on along the narrow trail through sparse forest with towering cliffs above. The trail ascended several steep stone staircases until it reached a point where it changed to a more gradual climb up the side of the hill. All around were spectacular panoramic mountain views which gave me a good excuse to stop and rest often to take it all in. Up ahead, looking towards the ice capped peak of Taboche, I could see the little buildings of Mong La, which is at the top of the climb.

The steep trail up to Mong La

View of Ama Dablam. Tengboche sits on the ridge below.

The trail to Mong La

Trekking to Mong La. From left to right: Taboche, Ama Dablam, Kantega

View of the village of Mong La. Taboche rises above.

I took my time ascending along the rocky, barren path. The scenery was just too beautiful to rush. I eventually wandered into the village of Mong La (3975m) around late morning. The village has to be positioned in one of the most beautiful settings I have seen, and I could have stayed here much longer, however I needed to push on as I still had plenty of trekking ahead of me.

Taking a rest in Mong La

From Mong La, the trail descends down steeply along a dusty, rocky trail through pine forest to the Dudh Kosi at Phortse Tenga. This is a sort of cross road for trails heading up to Gokyo or Phortse, which you can then follow on to Phangboche or Tengboche, and rejoin onto the Everest trail. My trail headed northwest, following along the Dudh Kosi valley, but first I stopped in Portse Tenga for lunch.

I made friends with this yak, just hanging out in Phortse Tenga

The good thing about following a valley is that there are no huge climbs, and the trail from Phortse Tenga was fairly pleasant, climbing gradually up and along the side of the valley through mossy rhododendron forest, with only the occasional steep section of steps. This part of the trail sits on the shady side of the valley, so it had begun to get much colder as the sun was hiding behind the peaks above. As I trekked on with views of Taboche (6542m) above me, streams began to turn to ice, and waterfalls coming down the steep valley side were also frozen. Up above, I could see snow clinging to the shady side of the mountain slopes.

A steep staircase on the trail to Dole. Icicles hang from the cliffs.

Looking back down the valley to Kantega

A frozen waterfall

Trekking through the forest beside a frozen stream

View down the valley to Phortse, with Kantega poking out above the clouds.

Trekking into Dole among snow and clouds

The pleasant, but cold forest trail eventually emerged above the treeline and into the village of Dole at my highest point of the trail so far at 4040m. Dole is really a cluster of trekking lodges, rather than an actual village. Snow surrounded the buildings in any bit of shade that was available, and clouds had come in to shroud the mountains above. It would be a cold night tonight.